A Guide To Udderstanding Milk Alternatives •

Before you say anything – I’ve uhm-ed and ah-ed for a good ten minutes about the title. I’ve made my bed.

Remember when life was just black and white? Going to “work” was just make-believe, tax was just a word and milk was just milk? Nowadays, it seems life is a never-ending string of decision after decision (#adulting); even “any milk with that?” requires a list of follow-up questions. Don’t get me wrong, I love that our food system is becoming so much more diverse and can cater for so many more people – whether you’re lactose intolerant, vegan, or just prefer the taste of non-dairy milks. But, it can seem a little overwhelming when a whole section of the supermarket is now occupied with milk alternatives. Which is the best choice? Which one is healthiest? Which will taste best in my coffee? These are all valid questions to consider, and of course, many of us are becoming increasingly aware of the impact of our food choices on the environment and animal welfare. It’s important to have an understanding of all of these things, so before you google “how does one milk an almond?”, allow me to help.

Before I get into it, this is a guide only – exact nutritional breakdown will vary by brand and even environmental impact will depend on where you live in relation to where the milk was produced due to air miles. Your choice, and which is best for you, will also largely depend on your health goals (e.g. calorie and protein content) or any dietary requirements you may have (e.g. tolerance of gluten, nuts, lactose).

Finally, if you are opting for milk alternatives, it’s really important to ensure it has been fortified with calcium (look at the label for this). Most brands are fortified with an amount comparable to dairy (around 300mg per 250ml glass), but some more “natural” brands do not. This is also something to consider if you are tempted to make your own homemade plant milk, believing that the fewer additives the better. Not all additives are created equal and in the case of calcium, this is super important for healthy bones and teeth, and also supports heart and nerve function. If you’re really opposed to this, do so with caution, and make sure you are getting plenty of calcium from other sources (tofu made with calcium sulfate, fish with bones, dark leafy greens, beans). It’s worth noting that girls and women, in particular, are at a high risk of calcium deficiency, and of developing osteoporosis (brittle bones that are prone to fractures) in later life. So don’t underestimate this.

Cows Milk

A Quick History (if you hate history, I’m judging you, but you can skip ahead if you wish).

According to historians cow’s milk has likely been consumed by humans for at least 8000 years. Since lactose is present in all mammalian milk (including human breast milk), we produce lactase (the enzyme that enables us to digest lactose) as infants. However, the production of lactase is dependent on demand – so when we stop drinking breast milk, we slowly stop producing it. Over time, a genetic mutation resulted in the continued production of lactase throughout adulthood. Studies suggest this occurred ~7500 years ago; so, allowing for the time needed for genetic mutations to occur, this helps us to pinpoint when cow’s milk started being consumed by humans. Interestingly, we have the dairy industry to thank for helping discover the smallpox vaccine.

The Controversies

Cows milk has been at the centre of plenty of controversies as the plant milk alternatives started piling up. A lot of these controversies are based on myths, not facts. My least favourite of these is that cow’s milk is “cow pus”. Oh the inaccuracies. I have had very intelligent friends believe this absolute BS – it’s maddening. Let me explain why.

In the UK, the upper limit for somatic cells allowed in milk is 400,000,000. Those peddling the concept that cow’s milk is full of pus will often quote this as 400,000,000 “pus cells”. Firstly, 400,000,000 cells is not as vast as you may think, and 90% of milk doesn’t even contain half that. But most importantly, somatic cells are not “pus cells”, as “pus cells” do not exist. Pus is a mixture of dead white blood cells, dead skin cells, and bacteria in serum – pretty gross. This is not the same as the live somatic cells (i.e. mostly white blood cells) present in milk from healthy cows. Mandatory quality checks mean that any milk produced when a cow has an infection (e.g. mastitis), is thrown out. Farmers, therefore, have a strong financial incentive to keep their cows healthy. Equating live somatic cells with pus is in no way shape or form scientifically valid. For reference, breast milk also contains somatic cells – yet, we know not only is breast milk not harmful, but massively beneficial. Not only this, believing that the presence of somatic cells indicates infection, by the same logic would mean all humans are constantly ill – because of course, we all have white blood cells in our blood. So, we can just forget that the somatic cells in cows’ milk are causing us ill-health. Whether or not you choose to drink cows’ milk is your own prerogative, but please for the love of Pete, do not let this false rhetoric be one of them.

Thank goodness that’s over with.

Nutritional Breakdown

Cows milk actually ticks a lot of nutritional tickboxes, and is extremely comparable to breastmilk in terms of protein, carbs and fat. Just one 250ml glass has around 40% of our calcium requirements, 50% of our B12, and 9g protein (more than an egg). Lactose-free versions are available if you are lactose intolerant, however, these should not be the preferred option if there is no indication to do so, as lactose actually aids calcium absorption, and as mentioned earlier, cutting out lactose completely means a one-way ticket to actually developing lactose intolerance (remember supply of lactase is based on demand!). Depending on your goals, you can also choose lower fat and calorie options.

Some people may have concerns around the saturated fat content of dairy, while others may have heard dairy is “inflammatory” in the body. In reality, there are plenty of studies to show that dairy is actually anti-inflammatory, with evidence suggesting that its consumption has a neutral or beneficial impact on risk of heart disease, despite its’ saturated fat profile (even full-fat options).

So from a health perspective, regular cows milk gets a big green light from me.

Environmental Impact

Environmentally though, this is where things start to lose their shine. In general, food production is one of the main contributors of greenhouse gases (~18-20% of the total emissions in the UK), with meat and dairy releasing more than any other type of food production. One glass of cows’ milk emits three times the amount of greenhouse gasses (mostly methane, which is twenty times more potent than carbon dioxide) and nine times the land of most plant milks. Just one litre of milk requires 628 litres of water, most of which is needed to grow the crops used to feed the cows.

The actual environmental impact though actually varies a lot between countries, even between individual farms, and some countries are making good progress. In the UK, dairy farms are thought to contribute less than 2% of the total annual greenhouse gas emissions, making it one of the world’s leaders in sustainable milk production.

Therefore, while we undeniably need to be aware of the significant impact dairy can have on the environment, it isn’t all doom and gloom. Progress is possible, and the simple inclusion of dairy in our diets isn’t the issue; rather, it’s the sheer overreliance on these foods, and the increasing and excessive pressure this puts on the industry. You don’t have to cut it out if you don’t want to, but instead, be mindful of the environmental impact of diet and lifestyle as a whole, and consider using alternatives more often. Variety is the spice of life!

Soy Milk

Soy milk is the OG alternative to cows’ milk, but I feel has been rather pushed out by his plant-milk peers. Nutritionally, soy milk has the most similar nutrient profile to cows’ milk compared with other alternatives. It sits roughly between semi-skimmed and whole milk for calories and fat content, but contains the same amount of protein. It is also the only plant-based milk to contain all of the essential amino acids (building blocks of protein), which is rare in plant foods. Sweetened versions contain a similar amount of sugar to regular cows’ milk in order to try and replicate the subtle sweetness of milk. However, choose unsweetened if possible, as the sugar contained in cows’ milk is intracellular (meaning it’s bound with other cells); whereas in plant milks, any added sugar is free sugars, so has more of an impact on blood sugar and teeth. In my experience, most people find sweetened plant milks overly sweet, so often prefer unsweetened versions anyway.

Phytoestrogens

One of the main concerns people have with soy milk stems from something called phytoestrogens, which are present in soy; namely a specific class of these called ‘isoflavones’. As the name would suggest, these have a similar structure to the female sex hormone, oestrogen. This raised concerns that this could interefere with hormone balance, because excess oestrogen levels are associated with increased risk of breast cancer, weight gain and thyroid dysfunction. One thing to note is that we don’t only get phytoestrogens from soy, but also many plant foods including garlic, wheat, rice, beans, carrots, potatoes, apples and cherries; yet we know a diet high in plant foods is highly beneficial for health. The studies investigating the effect of phytoestrogens in the body have shown conflicting results. This is due to how the study was conducted, such as animal vs human studies, and concentration of phytoestrogens used.

In a nutshell, the current and growing evidence shows that phytoestrogens in soy have a milder effect on your body than your own oestrogen and that the effect on the body is likely neutral or tipped towards beneficial, rather than harmful. Many of the studies suggesting a negative effect use phytoestrogen supplements, which are much more concentrated than those in soy milk. Post-menopausal women are particularly likely to benefit, due to the natural decline in oestrogen levels at this stage of life. Not only does this cause unfavourable symptoms, but due to oestrogens protective effect against heart disease, puts post-menopausal women at higher risk. Soy products may therefore help to alleviate associated symptoms (with less side effects than with hormone replacement therapy) and may help to attenuate risk of heart disease in this population group. For any men out there who have heard the horror stories, let me assure you that soy does not impact testosterone levels and will not cause you to grow breasts. If it did, do you really think breast implants would still be a thing?

As with all plant milks, ensure the soy milk you choose has been fortified with calcium appropriately.

Environmental Impact

Soy has also come under fire for its impact on the environment, mainly due to soy plantations being a major source of deforestation in countries such as Brazil. However, it’s worth noting that the increase in demand for soy has more to do with the growing amount of livestock to meet the demand for meat, dairy and eggs – around 75-90% of all soy crops are used to feed these livestock.

Otherwise, soy milk is the most water efficient milk alternative, using almost twenty-three times less water per litre than cows’ milk to produce. Scores for land use and carbon emissions for soy milk are also pretty impressive. As with any food, try and aim for sources as close to home as possible to reduce the impact of air miles.

Overall, considering its natural creaminess and similarity in nutritional composition to cows’ milk, for significantly lower environmental impact, soy milk is a great choice.

Almond Milk

Next after soy milk, in came almond. This is arguably the milk that changed everything as far as milk alternatives go. Let’s face it, most people who drank soy milk only did so if they were vegan or had dairy intolerances. Once almond milk hit the shelves, it seemed like everyone was on board.

While soy milk though is a fairly straight forward swap for dairy, the same can’t be said for almond milk. Simply put, almond milk is mostly water (around 97% in fact, with 2% almonds and 1% emulsifier, which help keep the oil from the nuts and water in suspension for a smooth consistency). While this means a lower calorie and fat content, which may suit your goals, it also means it’s virtually void of any protein. Whole almonds offer a range of healthy fats, fibre and micronutrients, but due to such a small percentage of almond milk actually being almonds, these are negligible in the final product. Any vitamins and minerals in almond milk will more than likely be added during processing. It’s important you do go for these fortified options though if you are replacing regular milk with almond – so go for brands that add calcium, and if possible, vitamin D and B12 as well. As with soy milk, go for unsweetened if you can.

Environmental Impact

Environmentally, almond milk produces less carbon emissions than dairy and soy. However one of the main considerations is the amount of water needed to grow almonds. I’ve seen vastly different figures quoted, but it appears that a single almond takes anywhere between 5-14 litres of water to grow, or around 74 litres per glass of almond milk. It’s worth noting that this is still less than the requirement for cows’ milk; however, source matters. 80% of all almonds are grown in California, well known for its hot and dry climate, and prone to long droughts. Growing almonds also relies on pollination by bees. 70% of commercial bees in California are used for almonds, and due to the increasing demand, over a third of these bees die prematurely; a figure which is growing. The sustainability of the current demand on almonds, without making changes, is questionable.

Being fully honest – I would say almond milk is my go-to plant milk. It’s a good option for anything where I would be consuming a larger volume of milk in one go (e.g. protein or fruit smoothies), as cows’ milk can be fairly heavy on the stomach. I often use it in baking as well. However, it sits on the lower end of nutritional value, but the higher end in terms of environmental impact, when comparing it to other plant milks. While I don’t think there’s anything wrong with consuming almond milk from time to time, it’s something to think about, and maybe time to consider choosing other options more often. A good, easy switch is hazelnut milk. This is comparable in taste and texture, but unlike almonds, hazelnuts are pollinated by wind and grow in moist climates, so use less water. Cashew milk is another option that uses less water than almonds, but go for Fairtrade if you want to go for this choice, as cashew farmers, most of which live in India, can be treated very poorly.

Coconut Milk

“Coconut milk” could be referring to one of two things – the thick, super creamy stuff that comes in cans; or the more liquidy form that comes in cartons (and more than likely shelved with the rest of the plant milks in the supermarket). For clarity – I’m talking about the latter.

Coconut milk tends to vary more across brands in terms of exactly how it’s made. Some brands are made with a blend of coconut and either soy or rice milk, other brands not. However, coconut milk will generally be over 90% water so, like almond milk, will have overall poor nutritional value, with only negligible differences between the two

Environmental Impact

Coconut milk stacks up well in terms of carbon emissions and water use – they are grown in tropical areas with typically high rainfall, and the trees are particularly good at drawing carbon out of the atmosphere. However, most of our coconuts are grown in poor regions of the Philippines, India and Indonesia. The main concern with the coconut industry as a whole is deforestation and exploitation of workers, who are overworked and underpaid. If you buy coconut products, including coconut milk, buy Fairtrade.

Rice Milk

Rice milk isn’t often talked about but is actually one of the least likely to be an issue for people with allergies. Rice milk is higher in carbohydrates than the likes of nut milks, but this makes it a good option for a post workout protein shake (getting a good ratio of carbs and protein is great for muscle recovery). Like most other plant milks, on its own it is low in protein and the any meaningful micronutrients will be based on fortification.

Environmental Impact

The environmental impact though, when comparing with other plant milks, isn’t great. It uses just slightly less water than almond milk, and has the highest greenhouse gas emissions. Similar to cows, rice production is associated with methane production, which is released as a by-product from certain bacteria that breed in rice paddies.

If you have issues with allergies and intolerances to all other options, rice milk will likely be suitable for you. Otherwise – rice milk seems to be at the bottom of the list when taking into account nutrition and environmental impact.

Oat Milk

If you liked what I said about rice milk being a good option for post workout recovery, and are disappointed in the final verdict – oat milk is the way to go. This is another higher carbohydrate option compared with other alternatives. It has more calories than most other plant milks – typically similar to cow and soy milk, although can even be a little higher depending on the brand. However, try not to see this as a bad thing! Firstly, calories are not the devil and secondly, oat milk is so much creamier than other plant-based options, so is a great swap for use in coffee (lattes/cappuccinos are more forgiving, but for just adding a splash into Americanos, oat milk is the only one I like). I feel like a broken record at this point, but the protein content is low and the remainder of the nutritional composition depends on fortification.

Environmental Impact

Oats grow in cooler climates in the northern hemisphere, so taking into account air miles, are more likely to be grown close to home (home being the UK). They are a good, sustainable option across all areas, and are not associated with deforestation or exploitation of workers.

Combining its nutritional content (albeit low in protein), creamy taste, and low environmental impact, oat milk is a great option all round. Yay!

Bottom Line

Realistically – there is no one “right” option when it comes to milk, and they all come with pros and cons. Nutritionally, it’s hard to beat cows’ milk, and with growing evidence that dairy may have an anti-inflammatory and possibly protective effect against heart disease, it’s not something I would suggest totally eliminating from the diet (unless you are vegan or have intolerances). In the UK, milks will also be typically produced locally, so have minimal to no air miles and supports local farmers.

However, there is no doubt that, while none are perfect, all milk alternatives have a significantly smaller environmental impact than dairy. My best advice would be to include some dairy in the diet, but don’t overdo it, and instead supplementing with alternatives where needed.

But which alternative? Well, there’s no perfect choice, and it depends on where you live, taste preference, nutritional goals, intended use, brand, and even which values matter most to you. Weigh up the pros and cons of each, and see how they align with your own goals and morals. Always choose fortified options, unsweetened where possible, look for brands using sources as close to home as possible, and where applicable, buy Fairtrade.